Turn your wall regulator to your
hose down from about 50psi for a typical spray gun to about
20psi. Then adjust the Flakebuster regulator down to about 5psi
or so. Play with the Flakebuster regulator to get the flake to
come out like a nice gentle snowfall.
We like it as close to full
coverage as we can get. It helps to have a similar colored base
first (IE silver metallic base for chrome or silver flake). Lay
down a coat of PB&J Cleer (34-200 see below) with slow
reducer or retarder to stay open longer over your base.
Immediately use the Flakebuster to shoot the flake on at your
desired coverage.
Here's a good tip...
Lay down a leaf bag or something to catch the dry flake after
applying the basecoat as the flake doesn't stick to itself so
you can reuse it now or later.
Any flakes standing up on end
after spraying we pat down lightly with a nitril glove on rather
than blowing them down with higher air pressure. We seem to blow
off more than we get to lay down that way so patting seems to
work better for us.
Next clear the heck out of it
with a good high build catalyzed clearcoat like Production
Cleer (32-200 see below). Apply 4-5 good coats. Let dry
overnight and scuff with 320-400 grit or so to break the surface
and let those solvents out of the paint. Let dry a few more days
in the sun if possible (the longer the better). Block sand (or
DA) semi smooth again with 320-400 grit or so.
Don't try to sand perfectly smooth here or you will sand into the
flakes and you will be sorry!!! Reclear again with Production
Clear. Repeat the drying procedures above using 500-600
grit. Then after a few days you can sand it completely smooth
with 600 or so and get ready to add graphics, candies or final
Sun Bloct Clear (32-100 see below).
Another tip... The longer you
allow the high build clear to dry on the flakes the less chance
of shrinkage later. You should wait to color sand and buff as
long as possible. If you hurry the process you may have to
re-color sand and rebuff in a few months as the surface will
continue to shrink and become like an orange peel, quite
literally.
Hope this helps...
Protective,
Bonding & Jammin' Cleer (34-200)
is normally mixed 2:1 with reducer (normall use 50-111 fast reducer). It is not catalyzed so it is
not a final clear coat and offers no protection to the elements.
It can be mixed ahead to have ready when needed and has indefinite pot life.
One of the most versatile tools
in the kustom painters arsenal and a very handy clear to have on
hand! It's used over
basecoats and artwork if they can't be top coated with a catalyzed clear right
away and acts as a buffer zone to sand out mistapes and minor mistakes
during graphic work. It also helps catalyzed clear adhere to marblizers
or Imagin's as referred to in Xotic terms.
It is very low solids and does
not build much milage (IE. thickness). As such, it is the perfect
medium for applying dry components like mixing in with pearls,
applied as a base for dry flakes, etc..
Never apply more than 4 coats at any one time or delamination can
occur. For Flakebuster use add a slow reducer (50-333) or
retarder to make the surface stay open and remain tacky longer.
This will allow you to get the whole panel or tank flaked at
once. If it tacks off too fast and the flakes no longer are
sticking then add another coat of PB&J Cleer and apply more
flake as needed.
Production Clear
(32-200) is a high solids or
"build" clear and is mixed 3:1:1/2 (3 parts Production Cleer: 1 part
catalyst: 1/2 part reducer). Since it is catalyzed*, it is fuel resistant and very durable. It does have a
limited pot life as does any catalyzed product so proper equipment
cleanup is a necessity.
It is used over basecoats, PB&J
(above), flakes, etc. and
builds milage to level tape
edges in designs and artwork. It can be tinted as above to make
catalyzed candy colors and can be topcoated with Sun-Bloct
Final Cleer (see below) to
further enhance it's Distintiveness Of Image (DOI). It can be wet sanded after 24 hours
for further
graphics work with basecoats or candies. It can also be sanded to
smooth out any tape edges and then recoated. It takes approximately
8 hours of curing at 70* or can be forced cured at 140* for 45 to
60 minutes.
If using Production Cleer as a bleed sealer do not
use any reducer. For better flow out when used as a normal clear
add 10% additional reducer and/or use slow reducer.
Sun-Bloct Final Clear
(32-100) is a lower solids or
"flow" clear and is mixed 3:1:1/2 (3 parts Final Cleer: 1 part
catalyst: 1/2 part reducer). Since it is catalyzed* it is fuel
resistant, very flexible, dries almost crystal clear and is
easily color sanded. It is
very chip resistant due to it's flexible nature.
It is used as a final or flow clear coat over
Production Cleer, Candee Mid-coats or any urethane basecoats.
Adding 10% more catalyst to the very last coat only will increase
flow-out. It gives ultra-high gloss
(DOI) and polishes and
buffs easily. It takes approximately 16 to 24 hours for curing at
70* or maybe force cured at 140* for 45-60 minutes.
NOTE: ALL Xotic Cleers can be tinited using Xotic
tints or toners to intensify the depth of color.
* NOTE: Use of any
catalyzed product requires professional knowledge and proper
equipment such as a properly ventilated booth, paint suit, gloves and
specifically a fresh air
supplied mask or hood to avoid contact with isocyanates.
Don't take
your health or safety for granted.
